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Deep South, USA

With 12 days in on the oldest melon, there doesn't appear to be any blossom end rot. Usually it starts for me between 10-20 days. Even if I don't have a spectacular season weight wise, no BER would be a welcome improvement.

I know it's a calcium/calcium transport problem, but I have
a theory that genetics may have some bearing on how sensitive the fruit is to this problem. Since I'm growing
different genetics this year, I hope to be able to see if
I'm correct.

7/16/2011 3:07:08 PM

formerly RGG

Yoshi, I think you are on the wrong track here. Any melon may be prone to blossom end rot if the conditions favor it.

7/16/2011 10:00:47 PM

formerly RGG

Yoshi, in entry 14 into your diary you state you wish the pictured melon had a little better shape. To me it looks like the best shaped melon in your diary. It has the shape that grows into giant melons given the right conditions. It's kind of a fat cigar type of shape. I'm not saying it will be your largest melon just that I think it has the best shape.Certainly odd shaped melons can get really humongous sometimes.But look at the pictures of the big melons at the start of my dairy and you will see they all pretty much have this long and even shape.

7/16/2011 10:26:30 PM

Deep South, USA

Do you mean this one here?

http://www.bigpumpkins.com/Diary/DiaryViewOne.asp?eid=162690

I appreciate that you took the time to look over my diary. I've been reading yours as well. I wish my plants looked
that good, though it's my fault for not having the sense
to water them when I should have.

Unfortunately, that melon has not held that shape. I've added a picture of it taken on July 15 to the diary.

I was only theorizing about genetics and BER. Year before last, I grew Moon and Stars next to the CC's and none of the M&S had it that I remember, where nearly all the CC
melons did eventually. I want to be open to the possibility genetics played a role, though I admit it isn't very likely.

I think the primary driver for a given variety is rind
thickness. Don't all Carolina Cross sub-varieties have a very thick rind, 1-2"? I remember the #183 did.

Anyhow, I would think a very thick rind would demand more
calcium from the soil than an "eatin' melon". If the rind can't get enough to meet that deman as the fruit grows, it
begins to break down, resulting in BER.

That's just my opinion though.

7/17/2011 12:53:15 AM

formerly RGG

Yes, that's the one Yoshi. As far as I can tell all CC's do have thick rinds.Our water here in Knoxville is high in Calcium so I think blossom end rot is no problem here.If you really think it is a calcium deficiency then you should feed calcium to most of your plants to see if they grow better that way.I think I would try a soluble type of calcium that can be used as a foliar spray.

7/17/2011 7:05:13 AM

Please follow Todd's suggestion on at least one plant by watering it. Water it daily in some simple manner. At least place a five gallon bucket with a drain hole in the bottom (1/4" hole is enough) one foot from the stump and fill the bucket with pure water to within one inch of the top of the bucket. Do that once every morning for a month even if it rains. At the end of the month compare the watered plant to the others.

7/17/2011 12:01:34 PM

formerly RGG

Lloyd,I read your suggestion of a 5 gal bucket of water with a hole in it for watering and am giving it a try as it will give me a way to water without adding much to the mold and rot problem I now have.Thank you.

7/17/2011 1:47:00 PM

Deep South, USA

Looks like I spoke to soon. The first two melons came down with BER. Both of them had poorly developed blossom ends anyway.

I strongly suspect it will remain a problem, however (to put it mildly), so I got some stuff primarily meant for tomatoes but labeled for use on melons as well. Basically just some spray on calcium, I think. I'll admit I'm not overly optimistic about it, but it's worth a shot.

7/21/2011 4:20:10 PM