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Deep South, USA

Hello. This is my third attempt at growing large watermelons. The first two attempts were not successful. The best showing was a single 42 lb melon that did not ripen before the vine died of something that made the leaves start turning black. (I did not plant in the same area this year.)

I'm concerned for this year's attempt. I started two of my three plants in early May in pots, but did not get them transplanted until June 10. I think I waited too long to transplant them. I've just spotted the first female today. Is it too late to hope for a ripe melon?

6/30/2010 1:16:37 AM

Garner, NC

Good luck this year and welcome. If you have some females already I think you should be fine, a few weeks earlier would have been a little better though. 70-90 days of fruit growth puts you at a September maturity. Were you using any fungicides in the past?

6/30/2010 10:03:17 AM

Frankfort Oh

welcome !

6/30/2010 12:34:58 PM

Carrollton, Ga.

Where do you live Yoshi?

Welcome,
Doug Adams
Carrollton, Ga
John 3:16

6/30/2010 4:35:10 PM

Deep South, USA

Thank you all for the warm welcome. :)

I've never used fungicides. I've always been uneasy about
using chemicals. I realize though it may be necessary- I suspect last year's plants got hit late by a destructive pathogen, Fusarium at a guess. The main problem I had last year was blossom end rot destroying young CC melons, sometimes very quickly. The 42 pound melon is the only one that did not exhibit it. I planted in red clay then, this year I have them planted away from that area, and in considerably better soil.

I will almost certainly need at least insecticide. I've seen a couple of spotted cuke beetles on my plants already, and found some sort of eggs before that. Is Carbaryl (I think it's usually called Sevin dust) okay to
use on Watermelon plants?

I found another female today, and I've traced it to another
vine on the same plant. I think it will open Friday. The vines are ready to run all over the place.

I live in North Mississippi, not far from Oxford.

6/30/2010 10:15:09 PM

Bowdon, GA

Welcome Yoshi, I had never used fungicides in the garden before I started growing big stuff. I could get away with on short season crops. With a long season (and high humidity in the south)it is important. The first year or two I could have done alot better if I had sprayed. My plants died before the melon had been on the vine 60 days. Last year I got 90 by spraying. This year I hopefully have a better routine and maybe have some healthier plants this fall.

7/1/2010 10:11:00 PM

Deep South, USA

Seems like we had quite a bit of rain late in the growing season last year. I just bet my plants got hammered by a fungal invasion.

What fungicide would you recommend? What application pattern should be used? Should I apply as a preventative measure, or only if the plant shows signs of trouble?

I'm having an issue that may be nothing, but could be serious. During the heat of the day, the leaves wilt. Once they get some afternoon shade, they gradually recover. I put up an umbrella, and it seemed to help. Now the plant's growing outside its shade pattern.

It seemed to go away with the rain and clouds. Then come back with a sunny day. I'd hoped it was just a transplant problem, but it's been three weeks since they were transplanted.

Is it something to be concerned about?

7/1/2010 10:22:41 PM

Bowdon, GA

You can only prevent infection. It will not repair damaged leaves but can prevent spreading. Some growers my have some better plans, but just spraying Daconil or similar product every seven days will help alot. Sounds like your melons may be getting heat stressed. Check your soil moisture. They probablly just need more water. The plants shouldn't need shading they love sun. They can consume alot of water though.

7/1/2010 10:38:52 PM

Deep South, USA

I'll check into Daconil, I don't know how easy it is to get around here. I only have three plants so it shouldn't take much.

I suspected the wilting might be lack of water, but I've been afraid of giving them too much. I'm afraid I'm stuck using a watering can, the vines are likely too far into the growing stage to try routing a soaker hose. I usually let the water run onto the stump, instead of watering it directly. Also, I avoid getting the water on my leaves as much as possible, as I read that can contribute to fungus problems.

How many gallons of water a day should I use? I gave the plants about a gallon or so of water sometimes w/Miracle Gro when I water, but I thought then it wasn't enough. The water use profile of watermelon seems almost like jungle plants.

Now that the vines are about to start fruiting, I'm planning to switch to 8-14-9 (higher phosphorous-to-nitrogen ratio than Miracle Gro) when I fertilize. I read somewhere that fertilizer for African violets is good for watermelon. I don't know whether that's true, but this 8-14-9 mix calls itself African violet fertilizer, so I thought I'd try it. It shouldn't hurt, should it?

7/1/2010 11:52:43 PM

Bowdon, GA

Daconil is pretty common at feed and seed stores. Water is something you just have to get a feel for. Water requirements are different depending on, soil drainage, rainfall, type of much, no mulch etc. The roots are shallow and wide spreading, so they need to be watered over a broad surface area. If your soil is dry you may need to find somthing to move more water. If you have to use a sprinkler do it early in the morning so the leaves dry out quicker. I ussually kick up the phosphorus when they bloom.

7/2/2010 12:35:54 AM

You would do well to visit with some of the growers at Water Valley which is just a few miles from you. Jerry Vaughn is a world class grower and lives at the edge of Water Valley on Wise Street as you come into town from the north.

7/3/2010 2:25:31 PM

Rome Ga

just becareful when you spray. try to spray right at dark. this will help protect the honeybees and other good bugs

12/17/2010 7:15:46 PM