From

Location

Message

Date Posted

formerly RGG

This will be my first year using a fungicide program and I am wondering when you other local guys start spraying and any tips or hints any of you may have for me. Is it harmful to the plants to spray too much? Is it helpful to try to spray the underside of the leaves or is just spraying the tops enough? Does a good rain pretty much wash away all that has been sprayed on? I remember last year when Chris came out to see my patch and he told me I had a problem with anthracnose. My watermelon plants have always had this affliction & I wasn't even aware there was a problem. If a good spray program will keep the plant leaves healthy for a longer period of time I know it will be well worth keeping up with a good spray program.I will be using CUPRO & Daconil.

5/17/2010 9:23:40 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

TD, by no means an expert here...still struggling w/a correct solution also...or maybe prevention is the word I should use. I have read that prevention is the key, and rotation of preventative fungicides is the way to win the war. Maybe searching for a 3rd weapon to add in your rotation would be a good idea!!! Hope this helps, and that someone more knowledgable than I...will chime in with some good advice. Peace, Wayne
PS...just to show my non-expertness...never heard of CUPRO, what is active ingredient?

5/17/2010 11:38:01 PM

formerly RGG

Wayne, the active ingredient in CUPRO is copper hydroxide.

5/18/2010 8:22:00 AM

Frankfort Oh

I USE ,a small spray bottle ,with daconil, in it ,soon as the plants go out side ,it`s about the only thing I trust ,useing on watermelons ,that I`m probaly going to end up eating ,when its all over with,I start useing it ,when theres atleast three leaves, the ground still being to cold ,now u got to watch for them dam corn magitts-good luck.but to ansew ur question ,once you start ,dont stop ,until the end of the season

5/18/2010 10:20:36 AM

Corryton, TN

Keep in mind I'm spraying at the same time as commercial melons but here is the fungicide schedule (in weeks after planting)
1 Ridomil Gold
2 nothing
3 Dithane Rainshield 75DF
4 Dithane Rainshield 75DF
5 Flint 50WDG (conincides with runner development)
6 Dithane Rainshield 75DF
7 Flint 50WDG
8 Dithane Rainshield 75DF
9 Flint 50WDG
10 Bravo Weatherstik
11 Flint 50WDG
12 Bravo Weatherstick

READ LABELS THERE ARE LIMITATIONS!!

5/18/2010 8:02:47 PM

Corryton, TN

Quadris may be substituted for Flint. Flint appears to have better activity on powdery mildew and microdochium blight.
Bravo applied to nearly mature watermelon can cause sunburn on the fruit!

5/18/2010 8:09:15 PM

Owensboro, Ky.

Bdave, I know..or at least I think so...that prevention is the key!!! Any suggestions of a curative spray...if my prevention project fails?? Peace, Wayne

5/18/2010 9:04:51 PM

Corryton, TN

I haven't found that silver bullet. Prevention is key!!

5/18/2010 10:35:29 PM

TD, I agree with your fungicide choices. Both are economical and easy to find. Daconil is safe on young plants at the low recommended rates. Go with the higher rates later in the season when the conditions are high for fungus growth. Bravo has the same ingredient. Disease immunity to Daconil and Bravo is not a current problem. They are effect in rainy periods. You would be wise to read the directions on using CUPRO and avoid using it on young plants. It is one of few fungicides that is also a bactericide so it also helps with more than just fungus problems. If you need to be able to spray one day and work in the vines the following day, Quadris, Pristine, and similar fungicides are the way to go but expensive.

5/19/2010 12:01:17 AM

Carrollton, Ga.

How soon after plants come should I start spraying fungicide?

Thanks,
Doug
JN 3:16

5/19/2010 6:09:09 AM

I use Daconil on small plants when they get to the four to six true leaf stage and use only the low application rate. For me, spraying with a fungicide early is a good way to locate stink bugs that are hidden under the leaves. When the stink bugs get wet, they move on top of the leaves or away from the plant where they are visible. My objective is more to keep the predator insects alive while eliminating stink bugs than to prevent fungus at this stage.

5/19/2010 9:14:31 AM