From

Location

Message

Date Posted

No Place Special

Every year I try to come up with new ways to improve things and one of the things im looking at this year is molasses. From what I have read in posts about it, I dont get any definate feeling on what it does exactly, how it works and how its applied.

1. I can get it in liquid or bag at local farm store. Is one more ideal than the other and why?

2. Is their a certain TYPE I need to look for?

3. How, what rate and when is it best applied?

4. Can this be used to make tea and if so whats the process there?

5. Im trying some microrizia (sp?) this year, will they interact ok?


Thanks in advance for your help/ advice.

Mike Frantz

3/10/2006 11:49:34 AM

Paradise Mountain, New York

Just go to your local feed store Mike and get the liquid that they use for making cow and horse feed

3/10/2006 12:07:18 PM

Berlin,mi.(zuhlke2@hotmail.com)

mike black strap molasses or feed grade molasses is the kind i used. 2 oz's to a gallon foliar and drench. i also mixed it in with compost tea. now i have never grown anything close to what you have grown so did it help? who knows, but i didn't see any ill effect from it. i typed molasses into the search window and you could read all day on it.

3/10/2006 12:59:53 PM

Menomonie, WI (mail@gr8pumpkin.net)

The dry is simply molasses coated rice hulls.

3/10/2006 1:25:18 PM

Picton,ON (j.vincent@xplornet.ca)

I am interested in this topic as well. I have heard the 1-2oz per gallon mixing instructions before, but how much solution to be soil applied and how often? I know they suggest molasses solutions to be applied preplant to the patch area and then multiple applications through out the season. How many gallons of this solution should be applied per 1000 ft2?

3/10/2006 2:15:08 PM

Norton, MA

For teas I just put in the 2 oz. per gal. when I start to brew it. I assume it would boost myc. populations as it's main function is feeding microbes. AleX Noel.

3/10/2006 8:19:52 PM

Tipp City, Ohio

I had problems with my leaves drying last year. They remained green but were very brittle(like old age).

I emailed Craig Lembke. He told me that since my area had extemely dry/hot weather and since I did not overhead water enough that the molasses was the culprit. He said that he had talked to several other growers with the same problems. He feels that foliar spraying molasses is fine until the leaves appear to be dying and/or fruit growth slows and it is early in the season. If this happens then back off on the molasses. I thought my season was over late Aug. If I had known sooner I would have left the fruit on the vine longer instead of putting it in storage for 4-1/2 weeks.
Tom

3/10/2006 9:03:02 PM

Dallas, Oregon

soil soak only.any residual molasses can work like a magnifying glass making leaves brittle and open to other problems.

3/11/2006 12:06:48 AM

Ontario, Canada.

Although, I agree with most of the comments posted above it would be helpful to point to sources of information to clarify the points above regarding damage to the leaves. Residual effects of brittle leaves are not something I have been to concerned with the past two years. I would still like to keep an open mind with respect to foliar applications. Sevin and others pesticides are often much more detrimental than applications of sugars. I still have plans as do others to apply molasses much more moderately this year. It sure would be helpful to find that resource though.

3/13/2006 7:03:39 PM

No Place Special

I think im mostly interested in a one time spring addition to the soil only. Would this still be benificial?

3/13/2006 7:05:51 PM

Ontario, Canada.

Mike, Despite the chatter here about foliar applications Spring soil additions of molasses from what I have read are most beneficial. Molasses applied to soil infested with nematodes may reduce root galling and nematode reproduction.

"Liquid molasses, dry molasses powder, brown sugar, corn syrup - source of fast consuming sugars for feeding and breeding the aerobic bacteria in compost teas. Most microherd populations love the high carbon content in sugar products. Sugars are best dissolved and broken down by microbes in compost tea that has brewed at least 1-3 days, before applying to the soil. If too much sugar is added on soil straight as a topdressing, it may cause a temporary nitrogen deficiency in the soil as the microherd populations grow too fast. Molasses also contains sulfur which acts as a mild natural fungicide also. Molasses is also a great natural deodorizer for fishy teas. NOTE: Recent studies have shown that unsulfured molasses or dry molasses powder is best for faster aerobic microbial growth in tea brewing. For a more fungal tea don't add too much simple sugar or molasses to your aerobic teas. Use more complex sugars, starches and carbohydrates like in seaweed, rotten fruit, soy sauce, or other fungal foods."

http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/organic/2002085416013761.html

http://www.mtnlaurel.com/Recipes/molasse.htm

I hope this helps.

Russ Landry

3/14/2006 8:00:52 AM

Ontario, Canada.

I have been applying about 20 pounds per 1,000 sq.ft. of the bagged blackstrap type during fall and spring patch prep.

I use the liquid in my teas at rates from 1 to 2oz and brewed for at least 36 hours or more. Then applied foliar with a tank sprayer. I plan to reduce this usage somewhat in 2006 to a bi-weekly applications due to the undocumented concerns of some listed above and hopes to reduce the impacts of sudden growth spurts. Doc and I found a brief passage with reference to this in an article that was largely unsubstanciated last fall.

I know Doc, has used as much as 4 oz to the gallon per 1,000 in spring soil applications.

3/14/2006 8:12:14 AM

I learned the molasses trick 35 years ago from organic growers. I do use it in tea occasionally. My concern in using is different than any posts here.
I have to deal with a huge deer herd, baiting/feeding is common in the area, some of the guys are using molasses soaked corn for bait. I would like to try a spring addition to the field this year but I'm concerned about the odor attacking "critters" I have plenty of fence issues as it is.
Any thoughts or experiences ?

3/14/2006 8:25:35 AM

Menomonie, WI (mail@gr8pumpkin.net)

Dan add a little Fish Emulsion to your molasses the deer will not touch it. Bears are another story. Had one chew the hose off the sprayer two years ago. We spray Fish and Kelp with added Calcium, the molasses actually seems to cut the smell a little.

3/14/2006 9:33:27 AM

yeah,,,,I didn't even mention the bears !!!!
skunks,,coons,,fishers,,,,Who needs a petting zoo?

I'm trying to get some minkfarm bedding again this year, the odor doesn't hang long when tilled in and is does act as a deterant to the deer. I will add the molasses with that application.

Thanks Shannon, I have been using kelp in foliar apps, I will add Calcium this year as well.

3/14/2006 10:01:23 AM