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Greenfield, Mass

I'm new to this AG thing, but not to horticulture. But I haven't grown much in the squash family, or given any of it that much thought when I have.
So I've been looking for info on this for some time, and have come up with nothing. From what I gather AG's just flower after they reach the right age.
But is there any way to manipulate this to delay the flowering? Maybe lower temps, more hours of light in a day trimming, or a lot of N. Or maybe flowering is timed more on # of nodes? (all assuming no other stressing makes them flower early)
I ask for a few reasons; I'd like to keep a trimmed clone indoors for the winter (for kicks and I want to try in-vetro propagation with one, but that's an other topic) and it seems as though a plant that has had longer vegetative growth will be a better pumpkin maker.

Thanks,
Both hard facts and crazy theories are welcome

1/19/2012 9:31:35 AM

Anamosa, IA BPIowegian@aol.com

Once they start flowering they will keep it up until frost. You don't have to pollinate the first bloom. You can simply trim them off unti the plant is the size you want or until the timing is right so the fruit matures for the weighoff.

1/19/2012 1:36:29 PM

Greenfield, Mass

Okay, yeah, I guess that works. It would still be nice to keep them from flowering too early so fruit can be placed where wanted, rather than in the next county. I'm sure the timing will work out better than I'm expecting it too... I plan on everything going wrong.

1/19/2012 2:58:24 PM

East Jordan, MI

Dr. Jerryrigger,
That's an interesting concept. Not sure about manipulating temps and light. Seems like they would just stunt the plant, which is counterproductive to getting more plant behind the set. Extra nitrogen getting the plant to grow faster might work in getting more plant behind the fruit, but I don’t think it will slow down the flowering. However, by using extra nitrogen you could cause yourself problems in 3 ways.
1. Excess nitrogen causes the vines to be more brittle and not want to lay down. Then the weight of the vine can (and will) snap it.
2. Excess nitrogen will cause pollinations to abort. Then you will have one in the next county.
3. Excess nitrogen can increase disease problems.

I am not sure I totally understand the perceived problem. On all of the plants I've grown so far, there are flowers at every node after they start being produced and at about 45 days female flowers end up coming every 2 to 3 nodes (occasionally every node). By trimming off the early ones, you should be able to get the pumpkin set at the desired distance within 2-3 feet as long as you have a successful pollination.

If you are working with limited space you can use a side vine if you can't get a set within your target distance and just cut off the main at that side vine after you know the pumpkin isn't going to abort (15 days or so). The side effectively becomes the main at that point. This should give you around 4 more options within a 6 ft target area so you don't have to pollinate one in the next county.

I think most people would rather have one farther out on the main than desired, than to use a side vine if at all possible for a competition plant, but sometimes it can't be helped and very big pumpkins have been grown on side vines.

There are some very good growers that keep clones growing every winter. They might chime in here and give you some more insight.

Good Luck!

1/19/2012 11:01:34 PM

Greenfield, Mass

Thanks Cntryboy, I do believe I was over thinking this far too much (or maybe not quite enough).
As for winter clones; That shouldn't be a problem at all. I can just keep them cool so they grow slow, and once they are root bound take a new clone off of it. It doesn't matter if it's trying to make babies.

But how about keeping the soil/seed root at 75F and the rest of the plant at 45F.... massive root growth on a nearly dormant plant. I don't know how one would go about doing that, and it might not work out so well.

Oh well, I'm now focusing on the possibility of grafting manroot plants on to the vine.
If you're not familiar; manroot is a cucurbit which can grow a massive water storage root (native to dry places). Seems as though if done right it could "smooth out" the watering.... don't think I'll get around to trying that this year.
I seem to be getting off track, can you think of anything good to read that's slightly more AG related?

1/20/2012 8:43:21 AM

East Jordan, MI

If you are talking about regulating those temps in an inside environment, and you can control the air temp, just put a seed mat under the pot with a thermostat stuck in the pot, you can set it and forget it.

seed mat:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MT10006-19-1-2-Inch-Seedling/dp/B0001WV010

thermostat:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_2?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0001WV010&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=06WQ8YGRA7AP8DXGF6X4

These things are extrememly vigorous, so I'd think you'd be root bound quickly. But as I said I've never tried to keep one alive all winter. About 3 weeks (from a seed) is all I've tried and in a 2 gallon pot, it was already getting root bound.

1/20/2012 11:31:41 PM

Greenfield, Mass

Thanks, I've got a little heating mat and have set up little systems for veg starts with a aquarium heaters, a small tank of water, a pump, and some copper piping (all stuff I had lying around). And I have plans for a bigger temp controlled box for beer brewing which could be re purposed seasonally.

1/21/2012 11:37:31 AM