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Petaluma CA

This is my second year, last year I got 2 pumpkins but they only grew for only 45 days but made it to 200 Lb.
This year I know much more than last but I still have many questions.

(1)I live in a city that has clay (adobe) less than 2 feet down, how deep do the roots go?
Should I dig out some of the clay?
(2) when do I add the manure? I plan to have a couple of truck loads. right now we are starting the rainy season, Is it best to wait for the rains to end?
(3) my growing area is 19 feet wide and 30 feet long with a wooden fence on two sides. how many plants should i have? and how many can i get away with?
(4) once the kids get it all cleared out (weeds and junk) should i put black plastic over the area? or after the load of manure?
next year I want to grow a full term pumpkin

11/23/2002 5:35:49 PM

Ontario

adding manure and leafs will break up the clay and make it softer. Lots and lots of manure will soften it up faster. The sooner you add it the better. I would only cover the pit with black plastic. Is it possible to make your patch a little longer?

11/23/2002 8:28:07 PM

Petaluma CA

I may be able to get 4 more feet but that is all
so I should mix the manure with the clay? not dig it out.
The clay starts 2 feet down

11/23/2002 9:58:30 PM

Deer Park WA

Pumpkin Head,
I wouldn't recommend digging a pit in clay, the plants roots will only go down about 20 inches or so at the main stump and around 10 inches at the secondary's. It is better to spread the manure/compost out evenly in the area that the plant will claim, and till it in about 12 inches deep. Test the pH and try to adjust to slightly acidic (6.5). If your in clay chances are you are alkyline. Gypsum is also a wonderful clay buster, adds calcium, and is cheep! work it in with the manure. 19X30 is only enough room for one competitive AG and the 19' measurement is a little small. I would train the plant in the Xmas tree pattern and train the first few secondaries back behind the stump to allow room for the other secondaries. Trim off all tertiaries and don't let a back runner grow from the stump. Just my thoughts on your post...

Gerry Gadberry

11/24/2002 1:13:21 AM

Caceres, Spain

Completely agree with Gerry's nice advice. I would only recommend to point the main vine in the preferent wind direction and longitudinally (in the 30' way).
Concerning on the manure addition. I add four fingers thick covering all the entire patch twice a year, in October and March. The spring pit is now covered with a black plastic, and during all the winter, but taking care of humidity and removing it each other week until no heat is produced and the smell reminds a wood soil in a rainy day. Your clay soil will need manure in bulk for several years to look like a chocolate cake. Those soils are slower to improve than sandy ones, but more fertile. And as Gerry said, don't dig deep, the humic acids of the manure will get down to the subsoil and improve its texture as well.
Don

11/24/2002 1:54:13 AM

Petaluma CA

Is turkey manure ok to use? what is better?
I can get 2 yards delivered for around 70 bucks is this ok

11/25/2002 10:28:55 PM

Deer Park WA

Turkey manure is hot like chicken manure, I would compost it with leaves and organic matter. $70. bucks wow, I can get 20 yards of 4 year old rotted cow dukie for that! I would hunt around a little for that price, hell you can buy a bunch of quality seaweed for that much that probably would give you more "boost" for the bucks. Clay soils are rich in minerals and nutrients I would try to loosen the soil with gypsum, leaves, compost, or sandy loam for 8 bucks a yard first. Just my thoughts, I hate to see anyone get soaked for "speciality" fertilizer, stick with the basics.

11/25/2002 11:43:42 PM