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Rhode Island

MANY GROWERS WHO GOT BEHIND THIS SEASON HAVE SOME DIFFICULY CHOICES AT HAND.

DO YOU POLLINATE AT 9 TO 10 FT TO BE IN THAT LATE JUNE EARLY JULY WINDOW OR WAIT AND POLLINATE LATER ON A PLANT WHOS SIZE IS MORE TO YOUR LIKING?

PERSONALLY RON AND I HAVE ALWAYS BELIVED THAT ON THE EAST COAST THE TIMING (LOCATION OF SUN, AMT OF ACTUAL DAYLITE )IS PERFECT TO SUPPORT POLLINATIONS LATE JUNE TO AN IDEAL MAX OF JULY 7TH. PLUS OUR OCTOBER WEATHER IS USUALLY VERY SUPPORTIVE AS WELL.

MY ADVISE REGARDING THE SMALLER PLANTS WOULD BE TO POLLINATE A BIT CLOSER THAN YOU WOULD LIKE, BUT ALLOW MORE GROWTH AFTER THE FRUIT AS A BACK UP. AKA "THE PITCH FORK"
A SLIGHT VARIATION FROM THE MCKEES PLANT OF LAST YEAR.

I WOULD TERMINATE THE MAIN RIGHT AFTER THE PUMPKIN. THEN ALLOW THAT LAST SET OF SIDES BEFORE THE FRUIT TO GROW OUT TO 12 FT ( LIKE THE OTHERS ) BUT DO NOT TERMINATE THIRD STAGE VINES FROM THAT LAST SET.

LET THEM GROW AT A 45 DEGREE ANGLE OFF THAT LAST SET OF SIDES STRAIGHT DOWN THE PATCH JUST AS THE MAIN WOULD HAVE.
ID RUN THESE LENGTHS OF THIRD STAGE GROWTH ( ID SAY FIVE OR SIX SETS ON EACH SIDE ) OUT ANOTHER 15 FT AND DEAD HEAD.

IF YOU TOOK AN OVERHEAD VIEW AFTER THE PLANT WAS COMPLETE YOU WOULD SEE A BOX , WITH A LARGE PUMPKIN CENTERED IN THE MIDDLE AT BOTTOM END OF THE BOX, FOLLOWED BY A SET OF 5 TO 6 VINES RUNNING STRAIGHT OUT ON EACH SIDE OF THE PUMPKIN AKA "THE PITCH FORK"

THE HOPE FOR THIS PATTERN IS TO GET THE FRUIT GROWING AS FAST AS POSSIBLE (ON A SMALLER PLANT )BY ALLOWING THE SIDES TO STILL BE DEADHEADED ON TIME ( FORCING MORE JUICE TO THE PUMPKIN ), BUT TO ALLOW SOME NUTRIENTS TO PASS OFF BEFORE THE FRUIT ( SO THE FRUIT DOES NOT BLOW UP )INTO THOSE LAST TWO SIDES THAT ARE FEEDING THE THIRD STAGE GROWTH.

THE THIRD STAGE GROWTH IS YOU BACK UP SALAD IN CASE SOMETHING HAPPENS TO THE BASE OR PART OF THE MAIN MID TO LATE SEASON (IE) TO HAVE NEWER GROWTH TO SUPPORT THE FRUIT LATE SEASON

NECESSITY IS THE MOTHER OF ALL INVENTION

6/28/2008 7:14:34 AM

southwest MO

Pap, sounds like a diagram I did ths winter... I'll post a pic.

6/28/2008 9:06:04 AM

Pinedale, WY

Hey Pap, what is the minimum you would set a pumpkin on a main (ie: 6ft, 7ft, etc.)? My biggest plant right now is about 6 ft. So what do I do? I just got my first couple of females yesterday.

6/28/2008 8:49:54 PM

Brooklyn Corner, Nova Scotia

Hey Pap, thanks for the post. I'm in this very situation and I wasn't sure what to do. I'll follow your advice, Andy.

6/28/2008 9:43:57 PM

Colorado Springs.Co

I guess I don't understand plant energy distibution. a forward pitch fork formation would backfeed more than a backward spider formation? Turning secondaries backwards? Provided that you have the room and patience.

Pap I pay attention to all your advice and you still are helping us that might be a bit behind.Don't know what to say, but thanks comes to mind.

6/29/2008 1:39:06 AM

Farmville, Virginia (mfowler@hsc.edu)

Shaker, I think the idea Pap is talking about will work regardless of whether you turn those last sides back towards the main or forward towards the end of the patch. The main thing is that those 2 sides are before the fruit thereby letting them feed the fruit. I guess in most cases there would be more room towards the end of the patch than turning back towards the stump.

6/29/2008 8:02:28 AM

Rhode Island

the length out to pollinate is a call only you can make.

if your new at the hobby and have limited space you might need to go with 8 ft. if you have the roon id wait for at least 10 ft. (this time of year the main should grow a ft a day anyway )

a big pumpkin can be grown on a very small plant if managed well and kept disease free.

normally we set at 12 to 18 ft out depending on plant.
this year we have several on time and several that will be at 9 to 10 ft with a pitchfork attached on that last set of sides before the fruit.

6/30/2008 5:15:00 AM