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Subject:  Turning the Fruit..

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Stunner

Bristol, ME ([email protected])

Ok guys, rookie with question 1,236,863,971....
I have a fruit that appears to have set, doubled from ping-pong ball to nectorine size during the day today. The fruit will probably be culled eventually cause it's to close to the base, however, I am going to treat it as all others as the primary until it's time to cull. I have a new female coming along about 11 feet out. It is at a very bad angle, something on the order of 20 degrees off the main vine. The stem is very stiff and I am petrified about how to move it ever so slowly to perpendicular without snapping it off. The vine is about 5 feet beyond the fruit now and I have buried nearly every leaf joint to this point. I know it has to get at least softball size before I worry about even starting to move it but any tips the 'Masters' can offer on the best way to move a fruit would be hugely appreciated. Thank you guys, couldn't do this without ya..

7/1/2002 5:18:23 PM

LIpumpkin

Long Island,New York

First off, if you really think your gonna cull that baby then just let it sit and watch how the stem lengthens a bit...no sense in cutting roots,raising vine, curving etc. foir one your gonna cull. The one at 11 feet is more important. The stem will lengthen a bit as the fruit approaches pollination date.If your gonna keep it cut the tendril off and the side vine...it will naturally move a bit away from the vine giving more angle. If you havent "s"'d the vine before or beyond the fruit to get additional slack then go out there now and unburry the last 5 feet. Reposition in "S" shape so fruit is on outside of curve. When I can I actually build a mound of dirt under the pollination candidate so that when the fruit starts to grow and you move the dirt away the vine is already 6-10 inches above the ground. Dont even think about moving the new fruit until its basketball sized. Then move a little every day until its perpendicular to the vine. Put something clean and rigid under the new fruit a couple days after pollination so that it lands on its own on a dry surface. At basketball stage I get help and dig out the dirt, place styro under the fruit and let it grow........G

7/1/2002 8:48:00 PM

DARKY (Steve)

Hobbiton New Zealand

I did much the same as LIpumpkin but after i moved the pumpkin every day I also had some elastic around the pumpkin to keep it under constant pressure pulling it further away from the vine.

7/3/2002 12:53:42 AM

Gads

Deer Park WA

Hay Glen does that work for pumpkins or only squash? Seriously Glenn is right on the money. I would add don't manipulate any vine or stem untill late in the day when they have limbered up a bit.

7/3/2002 1:48:51 AM

LIpumpkin

Long Island,New York

As you know Gads....the squash hang from trees and dont need any adjusting.

7/3/2002 2:15:58 PM

clouddoc

Stratham NH

Elastics move teeth by applying constant pressure which causes the bone to change. No reason elastics shouldn't work with pumpkins LOL! Bernie

7/3/2002 6:31:01 PM

Total Posts: 6 Current Server Time: 8/21/2025 3:25:21 PM
 
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