From

Location

Message

Date Posted

I came across this article which I thought might interest some people.

Most trees have long roots extending deep into the subsoil. They draw in the nutrients and trace minerals which have leached out of the upper soil layers.

Fifty to 80% of these nutrients end up in the leaves so you'll find tree leaves rich in trace minerals. They are nature's nutrient recyclers.

Most leaves provide a high carbon source or "browns" for your compost. In other words their C/N ratio is usually over 30, often around 50. Essentially this means they are low in Nitrogen. In a compost they'll need their nitrogen rich green counterparts.
Leaves are collectively categorized with a C/N ratio of around 60. This places them firmly in the 'browns' or high carbon category of the compost pile. Their actual C/N ratios range from around 20 to over 100.

It isn't just the C/N ratio that tells how your leaves will perform in a compost. Decomposition is linked to the relative amounts of nitrogen, lignin and calcium they contain.

11/12/2015 4:57:13 PM

Leaves are collectively categorized with a C/N ratio of around 60. This places them firmly in the 'browns' or high carbon category of the compost pile. Their actual C/N ratios range from around 20 to over 100.

It isn't just the C/N ratio that tells how your leaves will perform in a compost. Decomposition is linked to the relative amounts of nitrogen, lignin and calcium they contain.

According to Ken Thompson, author of Compost (whose book I love for its straight forward info and humor), these are useful categories to use when composting leaves.
•Good Leaves - those lower in lignin and higher is calcium and nitrogen - includes ash, cherry, elm, linden, maple, poplar and willow. Break down in about a year.
•Bad Leaves - those higher in lignin and lower in nitrogen and calcium - includes beech, birch, hornbeam, oak, and sweet chestnut. I would also add magnolia and holly to this list. Need two or more years usually to breakdown.
For those who don't know the names of your trees or whose trees are not on the list here is a rule of thumb that may work for you.•Green Leaves - some trees shed green leaves. These can be added in moderate amounts.
•Red or Yellow Leaves - These can be used in small amounts.
•Brown Leaves - Should be avoided but are good for leaf mold.
A last Caution- avoid the leaves of black walnut and eucalyptus tree leaves. These plants have natural herbicides that prevent seed from germinating.

11/12/2015 4:57:46 PM

Just follow these steps
•Shred your leaves with a shredded or your lawn mower. This speeds up the amount of time needed to make leaf mold.
•Collect them together in either◦A naked pile (they may blow around though)
◦A wire cage or a compost bin.
◦In big plastic bags.

•Add water if dry and wait. a year or two until ready.
The process is slow - a couple or three years - but the product - leaf mold is a deluxe mulch well worth the wait.

11/12/2015 4:58:54 PM

The third post is for making leaf mould

11/12/2015 5:03:58 PM

Johnston, Iowa

Good stuff, thanks Spudder!

12/14/2015 10:25:51 AM